Tunnel under Nyugati Station

Tunnel under Nyugati Station Hidden shortcut

An interesting program idea from the blog of http://www.spottedbylocals.com/budapest

To understand the existence of this tunnel first we have to examine the structural landscape of railway stations in Budapest. The three main ‘headstations’, Déli, Keleti and Nyugati are deeply incorporated in the city, therefore crossing the railroad is mostly possible via overpasses or underpasses and tunnels. Anyway you have to go a long way to find a pass since they are not marked at all.

No wonder I was surprised when I discovered this tunnel. A forgotten little street off Podmaniczky on the Eastern side and a cobblestone-covered ramp on the other end, both leading to a dark hole in the wall.

Interesting rather than nice, the tunnel runs under the rails leaving from Nyugati Station, connecting Podmaniczky with Bulcsú utca. You may cross by foot or bike, the metal panels covering the pipeline in the middle make the trip pretty loud when you step or ride on them. The ‘discreet’ lights enhance the feeling of paranoia during the night, so do the houses of Bulcsú street at the Western exit, you better think twice before going in alone. I don’t want to scare anybody off, it’s just better to know the dark side.

A few years ago the area was planned to host the new government district but the project got stuck in blueprint-phase. However, as a major industrial and slumish area in the middle of the city the neighbourhood is undergoing a major renovation. I hope my favourite secret tunnel won’t be a victim of real estate vultures.

Details about this spot
Tunnel under Nyugati Station | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Podmaniczky utca 32 / Bulcsú utca 1 | Outer Pest
24 hours daily

The Gellert Baths and the Citadel

A day from breezenjen's travel blog:

Going to the Baths is one of the top 10 things to do in Budapest, so naturally we had to go to one. There must be a dozen baths in and around the city. We decided on the Gellert Baths on the Buda side. The Gellert Baths are located just across the Freedom Bridge and is difficult to miss. It’s adjacent to the massive Gellert Hotel. Before going to the Baths, we walked around and admired the hotel. The grounds of the hotel are beautiful with an outdoor café and pristine grounds. There is a gazebo in the front and if you walk a little further, there are gorgeous flowers in bloom. The weather was perfect for taking a walk and taking in the sites before getting into the water.

After lots of confusion on what kind of ticket to get (the Gellert Baths offer lots of services from massage to sauna to different kinds of baths), we decided that we just wanted to frolic in the pool area.

At the ticket booths you buy your ticket to the bath as well as “cabin.” A “cabin” is personal locker where you can change and store your personal items.

The Gellert Baths are gorgeous. Take some time to walk around the inside of the building. The architecture, the sculptures and the intricate tile work in the place will amaze you.

The baths are supplied by warm water from natural mineral springs that surround the city. The thermal water has medicinal properties and are supposed to promote health and wellness. There are a few pools that you can swim in. There is an indoor pool, an outdoor pool and a warmer Jacuzzi type pool outside. We started with the outdoor pool. Every hour the wave machine makes waves in this pool. So if you feel the desire to, you can ride the waves.

It’s pretty fun just playing in it. The waves last about 10 minutes. After that we sat in the warm Jacuzzi for a while and lastly, did some laps in the indoor pool. There are plenty of seats, so if you want to just enjoy the sunshine or read a book, you can do that as well.

I must say there must be some truth in the fact that the water has some wellness effects. I have been just imagining this, but I did feel that my skin was much softer and not as dry after enjoying the baths.

After the baths we crossed the Freedom Bridge and made our way to the Great Market, had lunch, did a little shopping and walked through the Vaci Utca.

During the evening time we decided to explore the Citadel. The Citadel is located in the Buda hills. The Citadel was built in the mid 1800's as a fortress to protect the city but it was never used as one.

Now it's just another tourist attraction with some old cannons, some interesting architecture but some amazing views. There's not much to do or see at the Citadel at night. You can walk around a bit and admire the statues. The most impressive one is the Independence Monument, which has become a symbol of freedom. It's a towering statue that is recognizable from many parts of the city. Besides seeing the statues, the views from the Citadel are gorgeous. If you take a short walk around the Citadel, you will be treated to the lights from the Castle and Parliament. You'll want to stop here for a while and admire the night skyline of the city. One shouldn't miss the opportunity to see this.

This Best of Budapest city tour ended with a bath in Gellert Bath. Try it.

Retro Budapest

A retro city guide by Jeff Greif

Budapest, Hungary’s capital city has really come alive after years of communist oppression, and today has a lot to offer.  The city originated as two cities, Buda and Pest, divided by the Danube River and joined together to form Budapest. The two sides of the city have distinct differences, but together they create a special place that is vibrant, historical and still a bit of old world Europe. 

Hilly Buda, positioned at the end of the European Alps, contains Castle Hill and the famous Gellert Baths while Pest is the commercial hub which begins the flat plane continuing south all the way to Greece and Turkey.  Pest is where you’ll find shopping and top restaurants that attract the café society for which the city is known.  A stay on the Pest side at the Inter Continental Budapest Hotel facing the Danube and adjacent to the famous Chain Bridge is an ideal choice both for its location and luxurious amenities.  The imposing post modern glass structure was recently fully renovated and offers spectacular rooms with river views.

Budapest has a history both rich and varied.  The Magyars, the originators of the Hungarian language founded the city.  Then the Turks took control, and they had a lasting and influential presence during the Ottoman Empire.  Afterward the Hapsburgs designated the city as a focal point of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and made it the jewel in the crown of European capitals.  Considering this impressive pedigree that already existed, the Communists came to the party late but they rocked the foundation of the city’s history.  During the period of Soviet occupation, which ended with the fall of the iron curtain in 1989, nothing really changed in the city. However it’s this interesting cold war phase, now called the Retro Period,  that fuels the city’s current vibe and as the name suggests is a step back in time.

Signposts of the Retro period are all over the city.  Throughout the long haul of Soviet oppression, Budapest’s citizens held on for better times and the remnants of their efforts still remain but nowhere more obvious than in the very active Jewish quarter.  During the Retro period there were not many shops here but now that’s changed.  With the locus centered in Király Street just adjacent to the quarter, there are shops and restaurants of all kinds now that make this charming neighborhood irresistible.   

On the Buda side of the city, there is a lot to explore including the facades of the buildings that meld different periods of Hungarian history together.  During the Retro period many of these buildings went into disrepair and are now just being restored. From Pest you can take a subway that drops you at Moscow Square, a beautiful public square and transit hub in the heart of Buda.  During the Retro period this is where the Soviets recruited Hungarian youths to become KGB agents.  The subway system still looks like its 1960 again with authentic cars built by the  Soviets during the Retro period.  This quirky present left to the city can take you anywhere from Pest to Buda. 

Also located on Buda hill and not to be missed are the Gellert Baths.  The ornately decorated hotel and spa dates back to 1918.  One of the most famous statues from the Retro period (now in Memento Park) stood guard on Gellert Hill in Buda just above the landmark baths.  The spa complex includes thermal baths, an Olympic size communal pool and separate private areas for men and women for therapeutic massages.  A hefty 18.5 million gallons of warm thermal water spring forth daily from its 118 natural thermal springs, and the relaxing experience of soaking in the baths can calm the weary after a long day of sightseeing. 

Castle Hill, close by to the Gellert baths by taxi offers a half day of sightseeing.  Arrive the scenic way by crossing the popular Chain Bridge from Pest and taking the funicular up the hill.  Reaching the pinnacle, visitors can experience the best views of the city anywhere along the ridge.  Start at the Royal Palace which is now a museum devoted to Hungarian art.  All the buildings were partially destroyed during World War II and rebuilt afterward to replicate their grandeur.  Don’t miss the labyrinths under Castle Hill.  This subterranean maze was used by the Nazis during the war as one of the last stands against the allies.  You can tour the labyrinth and learn about the fascinating history. 

Located just about four miles outside the city and accessible by taxi is Memento or Statue Park, and is the climax of the Retro Period tale.  When the Communist government was finally overthrown a smart businessman came forth and amassed all the statues and memorabilia that the Hungarians remembered so well, and installed them in a park.  The park is arranged in four figure-eight parterres with manystatues of workers and soldiers symbolizing the Soviet principals during the Retro Period.  A replica of the Stalin statue that stood on the Grandstand guards the entrance, but all traces of Stalin are gone except for his boots.  These are installed across the road from an old Trabant, the Soviet -made auto deemed perfect for the Hungarians. 

After a visit back in time Central Café is the perfect ending for the Retro Period tour. This coffee house dates back to 1887 when it was the center of social, cultural, and intellectual activity.  During the Retro period it was closed and afterward was turned into an eatery for construction workers of the underground.   Later in the 1990’s, after a brief stint as a club for the University, it operated as an amusement arcade.  It then fell into disrepair until 2000, when it was bought and returned to its original splendor.  Now everyone can again enjoy not only the sumptuous desserts, but also a full menu of fine cuisine that is inventive and even innovative by Budapest standards.

It’s always nice to crown a wonderful trip with a romantic experience.  Dinner at Gundel, a classic restaurant that was asleep during the Retro period, will surpass your expectations.  Strategically placed adjacent to City Park, this landmark’s popularity dates back to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and it is a symbol of culinary art and refined hospitality.   It survived the great hardships of World War II and was then occupied by the Communists during the Retro Period.  George Land, the restaurateur, and Ronald Lauder purchased it in 1992 and completely remodeled it in the original Belle Epoque style.  The opulent interiors designed by Adam Tihany invoke an old-world atmosphere and the food which carefully combines traditional Hungarian cuisine with contemporary flourishes is incredible.  Serving variations on the classics such as goose liver pate, veal paprika and catfish, the perfection in the execution is astounding and you’ll find yourself wondering exactly what is on your plate.  On summer evenings guests dine outside in the garden and listen to live music played by an orchestra whose repertoire spans the gamut from Franz Liszt (a Hungarian) to traditional gypsy music.  What a treat!

Budapest offers the traveler impressive history and culture, but the Retro Period, a time they were not proud of, is truly something that has left a lasting impression on the city.  So, get into your time machine, set your watch back and let history work some magic.  Experience the simple pleasures of bygone days when you head to Budapest where the red star has finally turned to gold.