Thursday, October 28, 2010

Retro Budapest

A retro city guide by Jeff Greif

Budapest, Hungary’s capital city has really come alive after years of communist oppression, and today has a lot to offer.  The city originated as two cities, Buda and Pest, divided by the Danube River and joined together to form Budapest. The two sides of the city have distinct differences, but together they create a special place that is vibrant, historical and still a bit of old world Europe. 

Hilly Buda, positioned at the end of the European Alps, contains Castle Hill and the famous Gellert Baths while Pest is the commercial hub which begins the flat plane continuing south all the way to Greece and Turkey.  Pest is where you’ll find shopping and top restaurants that attract the café society for which the city is known.  A stay on the Pest side at the Inter Continental Budapest Hotel facing the Danube and adjacent to the famous Chain Bridge is an ideal choice both for its location and luxurious amenities.  The imposing post modern glass structure was recently fully renovated and offers spectacular rooms with river views.

Budapest has a history both rich and varied.  The Magyars, the originators of the Hungarian language founded the city.  Then the Turks took control, and they had a lasting and influential presence during the Ottoman Empire.  Afterward the Hapsburgs designated the city as a focal point of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and made it the jewel in the crown of European capitals.  Considering this impressive pedigree that already existed, the Communists came to the party late but they rocked the foundation of the city’s history.  During the period of Soviet occupation, which ended with the fall of the iron curtain in 1989, nothing really changed in the city. However it’s this interesting cold war phase, now called the Retro Period,  that fuels the city’s current vibe and as the name suggests is a step back in time.

Signposts of the Retro period are all over the cityThroughout the long haul of Soviet oppression, Budapest’s citizens held on for better times and the remnants of their efforts still remain but nowhere more obvious than in the very active Jewish quarter.  During the Retro period there were not many shops here but now that’s changed.  With the locus centered in Király Street just adjacent to the quarter, there are shops and restaurants of all kinds now that make this charming neighborhood irresistible.   
On the Buda side of the city, there is a lot to explore including the facades of the buildings that meld different periods of Hungarian history together.  During the Retro period many of these buildings went into disrepair and are now just being restored. From Pest you can take a subway that drops you at Moscow Square, a beautiful public square and transit hub in the heart of Buda.  During the Retro period this is where the Soviets recruited Hungarian youths to become KGB agents.  The subway system still looks like its 1960 again with authentic cars built by the  Soviets during the Retro period.  This quirky present left to the city can take you anywhere from Pest to Buda. 

Also located on Buda hill and not to be missed are the Gellert Baths.  The ornately decorated hotel and spa dates back to 1918.  One of the most famous statues from the Retro period (now in Memento Park) stood guard on Gellert Hill in Buda just above the landmark baths.  The spa complex includes thermal baths, an Olympic size communal pool and separate private areas for men and women for therapeutic massages.  A hefty 18.5 million gallons of warm thermal water spring forth daily from its 118 natural thermal springs, and the relaxing experience of soaking in the baths can calm the weary after a long day of sightseeing

Castle Hill, close by to the Gellert baths by taxi offers a half day of sightseeing.  Arrive the scenic way by crossing the popular Chain Bridge from Pest and taking the funicular up the hill.  Reaching the pinnacle, visitors can experience the best views of the city anywhere along the ridge.  Start at the Royal Palace which is now a museum devoted to Hungarian art.  All the buildings were partially destroyed during World War II and rebuilt afterward to replicate their grandeur.  Don’t miss the labyrinths under Castle Hill.  This subterranean maze was used by the Nazis during the war as one of the last stands against the allies.  You can tour the labyrinth and learn about the fascinating history. 
Located just about four miles outside the city and accessible by taxi is Memento or Statue Park, and is the climax of the Retro Period tale.  When the Communist government was finally overthrown a smart businessman came forth and amassed all the statues and memorabilia that the Hungarians remembered so well, and installed them in a park.  The park is arranged in four figure-eight parterres with manystatues of workers and soldiers symbolizing the Soviet principals during the Retro Period.  A replica of the Stalin statue that stood on the Grandstand guards the entrance, but all traces of Stalin are gone except for his boots.  These are installed across the road from an old Trabant, the Soviet -made auto deemed perfect for the Hungarians. 

After a visit back in time Central Café is the perfect ending for the Retro Period tour. This coffee house dates back to 1887 when it was the center of social, cultural, and intellectual activity.  During the Retro period it was closed and afterward was turned into an eatery for construction workers of the underground.   Later in the 1990’s, after a brief stint as a club for the University, it operated as an amusement arcade.  It then fell into disrepair until 2000, when it was bought and returned to its original splendor.  Now everyone can again enjoy not only the sumptuous desserts, but also a full menu of fine cuisine that is inventive and even innovative by Budapest standards.

It’s always nice to crown a wonderful trip with a romantic experience.  Dinner at Gundel, a classic restaurant that was asleep during the Retro period, will surpass your expectations.  Strategically placed adjacent to City Park, this landmark’s popularity dates back to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and it is a symbol of culinary art and refined hospitality.   It survived the great hardships of World War II and was then occupied by the Communists during the Retro Period.  George Land, the restaurateur, and Ronald Lauder purchased it in 1992 and completely remodeled it in the original Belle Epoque style.  The opulent interiors designed by Adam Tihany invoke an old-world atmosphere and the food which carefully combines traditional Hungarian cuisine with contemporary flourishes is incredible.  Serving variations on the classics such as goose liver pate, veal paprika and catfish, the perfection in the execution is astounding and you’ll find yourself wondering exactly what is on your plate.  On summer evenings guests dine outside in the garden and listen to live music played by an orchestra whose repertoire spans the gamut from Franz Liszt (a Hungarian) to traditional gypsy music.  What a treat!

Budapest offers the traveler impressive history and culture, but the Retro Period, a time they were not proud of, is truly something that has left a lasting impression on the city.  So, get into your time machine, set your watch back and let history work some magic.  Experience the simple pleasures of bygone days when you head to Budapest where the red star has finally turned to gold.

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Egerszalók village

And one more good guide from the Funzine Magazine:

Egerszalók is a small village just six kilometers west of the city of Eger. It is situated in a valley between the Bükk and Mátra hills, making it a picturesque place to visit. Like Eger, wines are produced here and cellars abound. The village is characterized by a rich collection of natural attractions and makes a great place for enjoying outdoor activities. Visitors can walk in the hills and forests, visit the natural species of the large pond or take advantage of the thermal waters. A settlement for centuries, at the southern edge of the village you can find cave dwellings carved into the riolite tuff. There are also unique conical rock formations known as the "beehive stones." These make an interesting sight worth visiting.

 A rich culture of tradition compliments these natural assets, making for a relaxing experience. Visitors can enjoy programs organized by the village, including numerous folkdance presentations.

But the real gem of the village is the thermal bath complex. Here the hot waters from two ancient thermal springs have been flowing out of the side of a hill for ages, leaving behind beautiful mineral formations that cascade down the hill like a frozen waterfall. Bathers have enjoyed the benefits of the mineral-rich waters for ages.

An important factor in shaping this village and its bathing culture has been the Turkish occupation in the area. They brought with them a strong bathing culture as well as wine traditions, making these central aspects for the settlement. The natural formation seems to oblige this influence as well, as it can be considered the Hungarian version of the famous Turkish Pamukkale.
A few years ago, a huge wellness and spa complex was built and opened at the site of the thermal baths. One of Hungary's youngest bathing complexes, it covers an expansive area with numerous baths, both indoors and out, and top facilities for therapeutic treatments. Bathers can soak in the hot waters below the beautiful mineral formations, enjoying the natural setting. A far-east center, sauna world, beauty and fitness centers provide guests with a broad range of possibilities for enjoying their stay and truly relaxing.

Getting there:
By car, take the M3 east towards Eger. Trains leave every half hour from Budapest's Keleti train station to Eger. From Eger, the village is 6km by bus.

If you would like to spend a refreshing day in Egerszalók, join our escorted tour: Wellness day in Egerszalók

Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Pécs, the cultural capital

One interesting city guide from the Funzine Magazine:

Is Pécs a perfect place? Let’s see: Historical monuments? More than enough. Beautiful architecture? Yup. Nice climate? Indeedy. Young culturally astute people? Loads. Exciting programs? More than you can shake a stick at.
So why haven’t you been there? Very soon the place is going to be chock-a-block with sight-hungry tourists when Pécs takes the crown of European Capital of Culture 2010, so we thought we’d let you know about the place now, before every tour guide and their mum is banging on about the place.

Obligatory History Part
Pécs gets its name from the Slavic derivative of five, as builders used stones from five different cathedrals to build to the city’s churches, hence the name Quinque Ecclesiae in Latin, Pečuh in Croatian, Fünfkirchen in German, Pečuj in Serbian, Peçuy in Turkish and Päťkostolie in Slovak. (Hooray, here’s a rare case where the Hungarian is easiest to pronounce – say Pay-ch).Anyway, the Hungarian tribes arrived and conquered the region and the town became an important religious center. King Louis the Great founded a university in Pécs in 1367, the first in the country and the tax-dodging soap-phobics are still an important part of the town today.

The Ottomans took the town in 1526 and built many beautiful buildings; some can still be seen today, only most were destroyed by both the Hungarian Miklós Zrínyi’s pillaging army and then the Ottomans as they retreated a couple of hundred years later. In the 1700s the town flourished, stunning buildings were erected, most wars missed it and after losing Bratislava in the Treaty of Trianon, universities moved to it, making it the pearl in the pouch of southern Hungary.

What to See, What to See?

Mosque/Church
This Ottoman-era mosque was transformed into a church once the invaders left and is a beautiful building which still has original Arabic inscriptions inside the mihrab (the prayer niche pointing to Mecca).

Pécs Cathedral
The most stunning (and biggest) religious building in the area, which includes UNESCO World Heritage-listed 6th century Christian tombs, replete with their magnificent wall paintings.

Television Tower
Go to the top, think about spitting on the tourists down below but stop as you gaze in awe at the wonderful panorama of the city and the nearby Mecsek Mountains.

Vasarely Museum
Victor Vasarely, the founder of op-art, has this fascinating museum dedicated to his works.

Would you like to take an escorted tour from Budapest to Pécs? You can book it here: Pécs, the cultural capital

Sunday, October 24, 2010

Historical Revolution Walk

Budapest tour


Experience the build up, follow the marches, re-live the battles, remember the stories! The Revolution Walk takes a historical approach through the last 200 years of contemporary Hungarian history.  Hungary's past is filled with victories, failures and struggles. We lead you through these eventful times through the sights depicting the historical outcome and how it shaped Hungary today. 

Through our guides the walking tour will visit landmarks of Hungarian history that “shook” the world with the 1956 revolution as one of the main highlighted themes.  Prior to the revolution in 1956 a plethora of events such as the War of Independence, Great Compromise, WWI, WWII gave huge significance to the meaning behind the Hungarian quest for freedom. After delving through the recent history we take a microscopic approach towards the newly appointed communism government after World War II that led to the events of the 1956 Revolution. The tour leads you through the remembrance of the first protests and marches and the first shootings and killings that led the Hungarians to fight back against an unethical regime. Some of our stops and stories will be about our Liberty Square for Cardinal Mindszenty’s part in the revolution as well as the significance of the square and the last remaining tribute to the Soviet Union!  We will embrace the character of Imre Nagy by his memorial in remembrance of the man who defied the leaders in Moscow and paid dearly on the gallows two years later. Another stop will be the Parliament area where shots were fired, which instigated the revolt to take up arms and defend one’s freedom.  After these short stops we will visit more locations and memorials for stories about how the Hungarian freedom fighters fought major battles where boys and men lost their lives to protect their dreams of freedom with nothing more than Molotov cocktails and small fire arms against a well equipped Soviet Red army.

The 1956 Uprising was a short lived battle on the streets but silently in the back of the minds of many Hungarians they plotted their flight from communism and finally laid to rest the memories through the reburial of Imre Nagy leading to free elections and a return to a free society. 


Where and how can you book a tour like this? Budapest city tour booking 

Friday, October 22, 2010

Sights to be seen - Wine and Pálinka edition

One nice selection from the Funzine Magazine:

TÖRLEY SPARKLING WINE CELLARS AND MUSEUM
József Törley, who studied the production of champagne in its birthplace, France, opened his sparkling wine factory in Budafok back in 1882. Why there? The gentleman realized that the caves carved out of Budafok’s chalky limestone slopes resemble the soil of the Champagne region and therefore provide ideal conditions for sparkling wine production. The fame of his beverages rose like a meteor and he soon became a supplier of the Habsburgs and even exported to Paris! And for lovers of trivia, the mined limestone of Törley was used for the construction of the Parliament building. Why not take a bubblicious tour in the cellars, to learn about the secrets of sparkling wine-making and then tickle your tongue with the fizzy nectar?
1221 Budapest, Anna utca 5-7.

ZWACK UNICUM HERITAGE VISITORS’ CENTER
It’s unlikely that any traveler could visit this country and not be tempted (or forced) to try this dark, bitter liquid. But where does it come from and what’s its history? Well, unfortunately we’ll never be able to tell you what it’s made of as it’s a complex mixture of more than forty herbs, and the recipe is top secret! However, it is possible to visit the center of this famous Hungarian beverage that spans six generations to learn about the family’s history. You can also see a collection of 15,000 miniature bottles, and of course, you can get a taste of the stuff in the center’s tasting room. Open Mon.-Fri., 10 a.m.-6 p.m. For English language tours, make an appointment 48 hours in advance at museum@zwackunicum.hu This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or call +36.1.476.2383.
Soroksári út 26.


BUDAFOK CELLAR SYSTEM
We can all agree that Hungary has some darn good wines. Yet, it is a lesser known fact (and a crying shame that it is) that Budapest boasts one of the largest wine cellar systems in the whole world, still in use. The cellar labyrinth, hollowed out of limestone, spreads out like a giant web, with a total length of nearly 100 km. No kidding. Size seems to matter to these folks…one of the cellars showcases the biggest barrel in the world, a 1022-hectoliter monster, which could provide each and every resident of Budapest with a half glass of wine! To visit the cellar maze, you have to book ahead (call +36.1.227.0070). And after the tour, why not tingle your taste buds at Borkatakomba (‘wine catacombs’), a funky restaurant located in the labyrinth?
1222 Budapest, Nagytétényi út and around

MUSEUM OF AGRICULTURE
Inside the enchanting building of the Vajdahunyad Castle, the Museum of Agriculture showcases all things agricultural since 1897. Its huge collection covers everything from the origin and history of animal and plant farming in Hungary to viniculture and viticulture. Aha! Here’s a true treat for science-lover wine fans. The exhibition, which was totally pimped up in 2004, takes you on a trip from the very beginnings of wine-making in the Carpathian-basin up till today’s latest vinicultural tricks and secrets. Did you know that until the end of the 19th century, one-third of the Hungarian population lived on wine-making? No wonder, it (the skill of wine-making, not wine) is in their blood. Magyarland is wine-land; just ask the UNESCO World Heritage people about Tokaj-Hegyalja!
City Park


HOUSE OF HUNGARIAN WINES
After two years of financial hibernation, the House of Hungarian Wines, under new management, has just opened its gates again. The cellar museum is an ideal spot both for tourists on a city break – as it’s located near one of Budapest’s flagship sights, the Buda Castle – and for those who live here and would like to know more about local vinos and get a bit more confident when standing in a wine shop trying to choose the perfect bottle. Spearheading the project, Dénes Solnay proudly announced at the opening that they would soon include pálinkas and fizzy wines in their selection, too and promised to invite wine-makers to the museum regularly to mingle with the visitors. Wine tastings are available; expect fair prices!
1014 Budapest, Szentháromság tér 6.


NATIONAL WINE MUSEUM
The National Wine Museum stretches across an 800 m2 cellar system ensuring a perfect ambience for wine tasting. Learn about Hungary’s 22 wine regions in the museum, then step on their Tasting Avenue and test how wine-smart you got back at the exhibition. There’re 4000 different vinos from 150 wineries to choose from plus a wide range of pálinkas, too (Be warned, if you sample pálinka, you’ll need to have a substantial meal beforehand). Look for the classic plum, peach or apple versions, or go for a less traditional blackberry, blueberry, quince or elderflower flavor; otherwise ask the cellar masters for advice. Take a peek into all the tricks and secrets of wine- and pálinka-making, too. More info (also in English, German and Russian) at www.bor-kor.hu.
2000 Szentendre, Bogdányi utca 10.

SKANZEN
The take-a-walk-into-the-past open air museum of Szentendre (just a short HÉV ride from the capital), Skanzen, features outdoor exhibitions divided into the regions of Hungary. If you wander around the Upland Market Town section, you’ll find some references to the area’s historical wine region; this is the home of Tokaj and the red wines of Gyöngyös. Here you can wander around 18th and 19th century style stone buildings, and see taverns, cellars and workshops. Find old fashioned wine presses with wooden ceilings, apparently built in 1699 and renovated in 1832, which are still used today! The wine press is based on the earliest pressing mechanism design, while the furnishings of the building will make you feel like you’ve entered the home of an 18th century serf.
2001 Szentendre, Sztaravodai út 63.

ROYAL WINE HOUSE AND CELLAR MUSEUM
Permanent and temporary collections in a 1400 m2 cellar labyrinth of the Royal Wine House and Cellar Museum above the city in the castle district. You can, if you dare, wander around the maze of 16th century cellars by yourself but guided tours (also in English and German) and audio guides in eight languages are available, too. If the museum has whetted your appetite (or shall we say thirst), you can choose from a wide range of wines, fizzy wines and pálinkas on the spot at their wine shop. Not sure what to pair a good wine with? Why not try fine music? From this fall on, the museum will organize Wine and Music nights in co-operation with the Grazioso Budapest Chamber Orchestra. More info at www.kiralyiborok.hu!
1014 Budapest, Szent György tér

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Sights NOT to Be Seen

 The Funzine Magazine gathered the sights not to be seen in Budapest

KÖKI

Kőbánya-Kispest, or KÖKI as locals call it, is one of the final stop of Metro 3, the blue line. It used to be a shabby and we’d say kind of risky area for a first-time Budapester. Thankfully, though it’s now going through a total reconstruction. Still, we’d advise you to avoid it for a little while – until the constructions are over – as it’s pretty difficult to find your way around.

BÉKÁSMEGYER BLOCKS

The reason we included the Békásmegyer concrete heaven in our selection is that it’s basically an area not really pleasing to the eye. The place is crammed with huge concerete communist blocks of flats, so it’s only recommended for 20th century history fanatics and young architects on what-to-avoid trips.

JÓZSEFVÁROS

It’s the eighth district of our lovely capital and it used to be a red-alert area for tourists. Even an animation movie called Nyócker was made as a parody to the unbearable situation. Thankfully, the rehabilitation has already started in the form of the grand Corvin Promenade project, so we’d say south of Baross utca is safe now, moreover worth checking it out. Just to be sure, still stay away from the area between Baross utca and Rákóczi út.

BORÁROS TÉR AREA LATE AT NIGHT

While it’s a busy-bustling transportation hotspot, Boráros tér is not the place to hang around (especially on your own) late at night. You don’t need to be afraid, though, it’s usually just a bunch of drunken homeless sleeping around, so if you’re heading Pest on the Petőfi híd, no worries, just make sure you don’t stay around long. Hint: it’s not the best meeting point to agree on after 10 p.m.

AKÁCFA UTCA 15.

Got busted on the streetcar because you didn’t have a valid ticket on you? Well, you either pay your fine on the spot (6,000 HUF, which is roughly 21 EUR) or you have to head to –nowhere other than – Akácfa utca 15. to pay your 12,000 HUF fine (yup, 42 EUR). Here the ever-cheerful BKV personnel await you with their invoice books and a potentially judgemental smirk on their faces. Only visit this place if the friendliness of the ticket inspectors hasn’t managed to win you over elsewhere in the city.

Monday, October 18, 2010

Pub Crawl & Budapest Nightlife Tour

A night out with us makes a fun and easy time, no stress in finding your own party as we take to them. A Budapest time that will always be remembered. We lead you to a minimum of 4 locals’ only establishments where you’ll enjoy not being a tourist and hanging out and being treated like a local. 

Besides the good times you’ll be having the tour focuses on the importance of alcohol and the types Hungarians like to drink, usually in large quantities.  For our cellar stop we provide a small wine tasting of the most famous and typical wines in Hungary to help you get an idea of the correct stuff to order next time you are out for that fancy dinner.  We tell you about the local Hungarian beer types and you’ll even get one in each of the set places we visit.  We’ll also teach you the most important lesson, the shots!  We provide two taster ones so you can experience what we drink and learn about what they are made from. 

After all that learning and drinking you’ll be doing, you get to mingle with locals, share stories and make new ones, meet other travelers and make new friends.  The guide is also and endless fountain of information at your undivided attention during course of the evening to be pumped for all that insider information. The tour is designed to move around to the “in” and “fashionable” local places so never expect a dull time with us but a moving party.  This tour makes an excellent intro to the nightlife of Budapest on your first night or visit to the city and makes for a great base for you to go on your own afterwards. All drinks are provided in establishments and not on the street.


Where and how can you book a tour like this? Budapest night tour booking 

Budapest city segway tour



Budapest city tour Learn to ride and Segway the self balancing electric scooter and then we take you on a guided tour of the inner Pest side.

The tour starts with a 30-45 -minute orientation session in our office and on the square next to the City Segway Tours office. You will have time to practice on the Segways so that everyone feels comfortable and ready to go out and conquer Budapest.

The day or night tour will give you a fantastic orientation of inner Pest and fabulous views of the stunning Buda Castle District. You will glide from the office in the city center to sites including St. Stephen's Basilica, the Hungarian State Opera House and the Grand Boulevard of Andrassy framed by its tree-lined avenues. Next we'll cruise through Vorosmarty Square and the Vaci Walking District. Finally visit Vigado and Danube Promenades, the Chain Bridge, Roosevelt Square and more!

Where and how can you book a tour like this? Budapest city segway tour booking

What to do in Budapest


Budapest is the capital of Hungary. This is a lively big city with many sights, fun and adventure. The city is situated on the two sides of the river Danube. The river divides the city to two parts: Buda and Pest. Buda is hilly, Pest is more plain. The center of the city is in Pest: here can be found the administrative and entertaining centers of Budapest and Hungary. From the hills of Buda has beautiful panorama to the river and the city.

What to do in Budapest